Over the past decade sustainability has become a growing trend across all markets, namely the fashion industry. Brands like Stella McCartney, Eileen Fisher, Aritzia, among the many are becoming global leaders in implementing sustainable practices into their supply chain. As a trillion dollar industry, it's inevitable that any environmental, social, ethical, or economical impact will go noticed.
To provide some background on the concerns of sustainability and fashion, currently, the fashion industry is responsible for producing 10% of humanity’s carbon emissions, it has become the second-largest consumer of the world's water supply, and contributes to 20% of industrial water pollution worldwide. There are a variety of reasons behind these alarming facts.
Clothing production approximately doubled since the year 2000.
Individuals purchasing 60% more garments in 2014 than in 2000, but only keeping them for half as long.
Clothing companies offer significantly more collections per year than ever before.
85% of textiles being dumped into landfills and even some burned.
Large quantities of water being used to produce garments such as 700 gallons of water being used to produce only one cotton shirt.
In addition to the environmental impacts of the fashion sector, various ethical and social issues play a significant role in the upkeep of the industry. Those include but are not limited to the use of child labour where children are forced to work in below standard conditions for long hours, significantly low wages being paid to employees working at sweatshops, health and safety risks where workers and farmers are exposed to hazardous toxins, and animal cruelty in which animals are tortured for the use of their fur, skin, or hide while disrupting their habitats.
To combat these issues, many companies are willing to reinvent their brands and change their means of operating. Several brands have chosen to manufacture their garments using more sustainable materials (i.e. natural fibers), producing less unnecessary inventory, enact strict environmental regulations in their factories as well as ensure fair compensation for their employees. As more companies continue in this sustainably-driven direction, consumers will have higher opportunities to make ethical shopping decisions. Therefore, not only will fashion brands endure sustainable impacts, but consumers will also be key in further propelling the industry in becoming more sustainable.
One of the brands taking a new step in the direction of sustainability is the Swedish luxury fashion house, Acne Studios. Just a few weeks ago, before Paris fashion week Acne Studios announced the launch of their new Repurposed Capsule Collection. Currently, the company prides itself on being sustainable through its use of high quality materials for long-lasting products, promotion of fair working conditions in their supply chain, and operations that minimize environmental impacts. According to their sustainability report from the financial year 2018-19, they are continuously working towards aligning their work to the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs); 17 goals created by the United Nations Development Programme for governments, corporations, individuals, and other key stakeholders to integrate into their national policies and plans. They have also become key members of the Fair Wear Foundation (FWF) which supports monitoring and improving labour conditions in their factories of production.
Undoubtedly, Acne Studios knew it could do more. On September 24, 2020, they launched their Repurposed Tweed and Denim Capsule Collection for women consisting of 7 unique pieces. The collection is made entirely from excess fabrics and materials of tweed, denim, and leather, which were cut and patched together and accented with zippers.
As Jonny Johansson, creative director and co-founder of Acne Studios exceptionally put,
“This series is about finding creative ways to be more resourceful.” Building on the brands heritage, he followed by saying, “Acne Studios was founded on design experimentation, and today we want to use our creativity to take positive steps towards becoming more mindful.”
This opportunity to maximize waste in a unique way will not be their only collection, Acne Studios intends to continue to introduce many more unique and different collections featuring this environmentally-friendly method of deconstructing and putting together excess materials to create chic clothing with a twist.
Below you will find the pieces they put together for the Repurposed Capsule Collection:
1. Repurposed panel suit jacket in brown/black crafted from repurposed wool and cotton fabrics with zipper accents on the side pockets as well as hem
2. Repurposed panel jacket in brown/black put together using black rigid denim and checked wool fabric and perfected with detachable sleeves.
3. Repurposed panel skirt brown/black crafted from repurposed black rigid denim and checked wool with a leather waistband and detailed with zippers.
4. Repurposed panel trousers in beige/black made using repurposed black rigid denim and brown brushed cotton twill including zip detailing on each leg.
5. Repurposed zip trousers in brown/black crafted using repurposed black rigid denim and checked wool with zipper detailing on both legs.
6. Repurposed shirt in off white/burgundy put together using three different colours and a variety of contrasting repurposed materials.
7. Repurposed t-shirt in optic white crafted from repurposed cotton jersey with patches of checked wool.
More details on the Repurposed Capsule Collection can be found on their website at: https://www.acnestudios.com/emea/en/woman/repurposed-tweed-and-denim/
While this sustainable initiative is a step in the right direction, there is still progress to be made in the industry. The manufacturing of garments still remains one of the greatest pollutants in the world and working conditions are nowhere near fair or safe. Surely, we can hope that with this new collection, Acne Studios will be able to inspire existing and emerging fashion brands into becoming more sustainable.
Veronica Slowikowski
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