On the 29th of December of 2020, sobering news hit not only the fashion sphere but the entire world: Pierre Cardin, he who seemed immortal thanks to his limitless success and stunning vivacity at the impressive age of 98 years old, finally gave his last breath.
A disrupter of fashion, to say the least, Pierre Cardin, initially Pietro Costante Cardini, was born in Italy on July 22nd 1922 in Veneto before growing up in France, where his family had fled to escape fascism. It is all the more ironic that it is a man who belonged to a generation of immigrants that helped build the country's identity. At only fourteen years old, Cardin debuted his career as a tailor in Saint-Etienne, a small town in the south east of France. He then moved to Paris in order to work for multiple famous fashion houses including Paquin in 1944 where he designed the costumes and masks for La Belle et la Bête (1946) by Jean Cocteau, Elsa Schiaparelli in 1947 and, more notably, Christian Dior. In fact, he was Dior's very first employee and contributed to the house in many ways such as helping create the Bar tailleur.
It is only three years later that he finally took flight by opening his own house, a decision that was far from leaving the fashion world indifferent. Indeed, Though his designs, Pierre Cardin set in motion the revolutionization of haute couture. His trademark could thus be found in his sculptural silhouettes, use of new materials such as vinyle, fake fur, pop art colours and motifs. Furthermore, he became known for his particular signature which stemmed from his unique approach to fashion design which consists in creating shapes before translating them onto the body. Along with André Courrèges with whom he shared the same futuristic vision and Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin responded to the desire for innovation expressed by the post-war generation. Youth, the embodiment of tomorrow's possibilities, is precisely what drove the designer to create and the result is no other than a meditation on the utopia the 60s incarnated through its obsession for spatial conquest.
Here are some of his most iconic pieces: the bubble dress (1954), unisex Cosmocorps collection (1967), and the egg carton dress (1968).
Unlike his fellow designers, Pierre Cardin saw no boundaries to the influence he could have and wasn't afraid to disrupt the rigid fashion dictats of the decade. For one, he was the first to launch a men's collection (1960) for which he chose 250 students recruited directly after class. He was also a pioneer in the sense that he democratised couture by introducing the concept of ready-to-wear. Indeed, Cardin made a bold move by showcasing pieces from his collection in a large store, Le Printemps (think Galeries Lafayette), in 1962 instead of presenting them in apartments as custom demanded. However, bringing luxury clothes into the streets wasn't immediately wildly accepted, La Chambre Syndical de la Couture (responsible for designating which brands belong to Haute Couture) was quick to criticise such practices. At the same time, Cardin wasn't afraid to step into unknown territory, giving him an international resonance, adding another unique dimension to his brand. The brand's opening towards the world was most reflected when it entered Popular China in 1978 and the Soviet Union in 1986 where he didn't hesitate to display one of his collections on Red Square. His many collaborations with Japanese icon Hiroko Matsumoto whom he fell in love with in 1957 (Tokyo), further opened the doors to the conception of an international vision of fashion. His other muse, the actress Jeanne Moreau, known for her work with Truffaut and Losey among others, is shown below as well.
Slowly, Cardin's brand became omnipresent whether it was on screen or in store. The Beatles for one, left their leather jackets and jeans in 1963 for taupe body fitting collarless jackets from his first ready-to-wear collection "Cylindre". He dressed Emma Peel and John Steed for their roles in The Avengers, the British espionage TV show. And, in the french version of Back to te Future, the protagonist's underwear are marked with the designer's name proving it truly could be found anywhere...
In fact, his expansion to diverse fields was no coincidence as he invented a licence system for his brand name. Believe it or not, Pierre Cardin ranged from perfume to knives to water bottles! Some said it took away from the uniqueness of his fashion creations... Nonetheless, it underlined the fact that he wasn't only an avant-garde designer but an excellent business man as well. Thanks to his business flair, Cardin was able to stay at the head of his company, thus keeping it true to his vision throughout the years.
Later on, his love for architecture pushed him to buy le Palais Bulles located next to Cannes in the early 90's which was deemed the most expensive house in Europe in 2016 (Top Ten Real Estate News).The house matches his aesthetic to the core as it is bubble shaped and most definitely a reminder of spatial exploration, a theme dear to its owner. So, as we all continue to dream about what tomorrow might look like, it is essential to remember what the past has given us, more specifically the legacy Pierre Cardin has left behind: accessible Haute Couture, cosmopolitan fashion and amazing archives to explore and seek inspiration from.
Louise Wuyts
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