On October 12, 2015, 6,000 Native People gathered in New York to recognize the survival of Inidgenous Peoples on the western Hemisphere. This began a tradition for New York City, and other cities to follow, in which they would celebrate Indigenous Peoples’ Day in place of Columbus day.
Alongside growing support and representation of indigenous peoples is the revival of their fashion.
Native peoples have always had varied clothing. While ubiquitous deer made it a common source of skin for tanning, bison; caribou; and other mammals were used. Textiles were developed in coastal areas and in southern North America, where animal skin was inappropriate for weather or hard to come across. The textiles were made of plant fibers, animal hairs, and smaller animal skins. Dyes and paints were used and traded; quills and feathers adorned outfits as signs of prestige. Bones and shells were often used as jewelry and accessories. Beads cut from Atlantic Shells, as europeans called “wampum”, were widely traded. Inuit tribes used seal for water-resistance and caribou for warmth. Breechclouts of deerskin served as pants for men, especially among Plains Tribes. Still popular are Mukluks, originally sealskin soled boots stuffed with grass. Today, companies like “Ugg” sell products inspired by the warm boots.
These fashions are being displayed in modern exhibits and festivals, a part of the indigenous peoples’ social movement.
In 2016, “Native Fashion Now” became one of the United States’ first major Native American fashion exhibits. In Salem, Massachusetts, 75 Native American Designers from the USA and Canada were featured. As before, the designers produced varied clothing and accessories.
In 2018, McGill’s McCord Museum housed an exhibit, “Wearing Our Identity”, with contextualized Native-made clothing. The pieces were curate by Nadia Myre, an aboriginal artist. The McGill Tribune notes that the exhibit demonstrated the connection of human and animal, of tactical and spiritual, but it lacked a recognition of the path from artist to exhibit.
Toronto has also been the site of a novel Inidgenous Fashion Festival. “IFWTO is a fashion, craft & textiles festival presenting the most distinct and progressive Indigenous-made works. IFWTO celebrates global Indigenous expression in fashion and the arts and its grounding in Indigenous knowledge, ways of life and storytelling.” In this, its 3rd year, the festival will take place from November 26-29.
With such beautiful designs and messages, it is important to support and explore these designers. It would be remiss to not discuss the boundary between cultural appreciation and appropriation. If you are wearing the clothing of another culture to make fun, assert power, or demean, that is not okay If you’re not wearing it to explore or educate, you should explore your motives. Consider the imposition and hurt that you could be causing by misrepresenting an oppressed culture.
It should also be mentioned that appropriation and exploitation are not just individual offenses. Many companies copy and distort indigenous designs, including DSquared2 and Urban Outfitters.
Again, the best way to support indigenous peoples is by buying from indigenosu artists. Nahanee, who was raised Squamish and Nisga’a, says “If you’re wearing clothing because you feel the pride, because you feel a connection, that is to be celebrated,” she explains. “I walk down the street and see non-Indigenous people wearing Manitobah Mukluks and I’m like, ‘YES! Look at that!’ Oro notes that certain designs and colours are unique to different Indigenous peoples, and she’s well aware of which ones should be kept out of her commercial beadwork. [Headdresses] are specifically worn for traditional purposes or are ceremonial,” she explains. “Know where what you’re buying is coming from. Know the story behind it and who’s making it.”
Influenced and mixed with other contemporary styles, Native designers have created their own unique brands and lines. The one common theme is sustainability. Now, let’s explore six great brands that offer designs for all to purchase! (We also recommend you check out this, from Vogue, and check out the IFWTO festival this year for some indigenous runway designers!)
1. BYellowtail
Designer & CEO Bethany Yellowtail is from the Crow (Apsaalooke) & Northern Cheyenne (Tsetsehestahese & So’taeo’o) Nations in southeastern Montana. A graduate of the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, her brand promotes handmade and heirloom jewelry and accessories crafted by a selection of North American indigenous Artists.
2. Orenda Tribe
Run by Amy, the daughter of a full-blooded Navajo coming from the Bisti Wilderness-Chaco Canyon region, Orenda Tribe is about giving indigenous artists an outlet for creation. Orenda Tribe is about making change for good, and using the power of purchase to help.
3. Ginew
Ginew is the “only Native-American-iwned denim line.” With meticulously sourced materials, and elements of Ojibwe, Oneida, and Mohican heritage, Ginew creates modern Native-American apparel
Urban Native Era, along with all other mentioned designers, creates original designs for ALL to wear. They sell shirts with “You Are on Native Land” designs, and specify that non-natives can wear it. They further explain that they do not want to make “We Are On Native Land” shirts because it “inserts a non-indigenous perspective”, which is imposing and “defeats the purpose”.
Decolonial Clothing Co is founded by a Cree-Anishinaabe family from Treaty 6 and Treaty 4 Territories, and the business operates out of Coast Salish Territory.
6. The NTVS
The NTVS is run by “Two Native American guys trying to fill a hole in the market that is missing the voice of the people,” to teach the youth the importance of embracing culture - something clothing has done forever. They are crafting Native apparel with deeper meanings, sometimes light-hearted, sometimes serious. They use streetwear mixed with Native culture to embrace their culture.
Matthew Rugel
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